Culture is in fashion: between appropriation and appreciation of the traditional culture in fashion law
Keywords:
Cultural appreciation, Cultural appropriation, Traditional culture, Fashion Law, FashionAbstract
Recently, the fashion industry stood out for its involvement in episodes of cultural appropriation, a problematic situation that is exacerbated by the particularities of the fashion world and which does not have adequate legal solutions. Taking this context as a basis, this article aims to analyze how traditional culture should be used by the fashion industry. To this end, the paper looks at the phenomenon of the commodification of culture from a legal perspective and examines two paradigmatic fashion law cases, with the help of the inductive and comparative functional and factual contextualized methods. From this analysis, it is possible to conclude that there are objective criteria capable of helping the fashion industry to identify and avoid situations of cultural appropriation and to achieve its oppo-site: cultural appreciation.
Downloads
References
ARIZPE, Lourdes. Culture, diversity and heritage: major studies. Cham: Springer, 2015.
ARROSI, Letícia Soster. O direito e a moda. Revista de Direito Privado, v. 104, p. 121-144, mar.-abr. 2020.
BAKER, Katie. A much-needed primer on cultural appropriation. Jezebel, [S.l.], 13.11.2012. Latest. Disponível em: [https://www.jezebel.com/a-much-nee-ded-primer-on-cultural-appropriation]. Acesso em: 13.06.2024.
BARE, Eman Mustafa. The changing faces of hijab: does the veil have a place on the runways? Vogue Arabia, [S.l.], 12.09.2018. Disponível em: [https://en.vo-gue.me/culture/lifestyle-and-travel/the-changing-faces-of-hijab/]. Acesso em: 20.06.2024.
BEHR, Alan. In fashion law, timing is everything. In: SCAFIDI, Susan et al. (Eds.). Navigating fashion law: leading lawyers on exploring the trends, cases and strategies of Fashion Law. [S.l.]: Aspatore, 2012. p. 44-53.
BERRINGTON, Katie. Urban Outfitters settles lawsuit with Navajo Nation. Vogue World Paris, Paris, 22.11.2016. Disponível em: [https://www.vogue. co.uk/article/urban-outfitters-settles-lawsuit-with-navajo-nation]. Acesso em: 11.06.2024.
BLAKE, Janet. International cultural heritage law. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2015.
CHINELLATO, Silmara Juny de Abreu. Requisitos fundamentais para a proteção autoral de obras literárias, artísticas e científicas. Peculiaridades da obra de artes plásticas. In: MAMEDE, Gladston; FRANCA FILHO, Marcílio Toscano; RODRIGUES JR, Otavio Luiz (Orgs.). Direito da Arte. São Paulo: Atlas, 2014. p. 295-324.
DINWOODIE, Graeme B. The function of trademarks in the United States. In: CALBOLI, Irene; GINSBURG, Jane C. (Eds.). The Cambridge Handbook of international and comparative trademark law. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2020. p. 178-191.
FELLET, João. Da escravidão à autonomia em 50 anos: a história de renascimento dos índios Yawanawá. BBC News Brasil, São Paulo, 16.11.2019. Disponível em: [https://www.bbc.com/portuguese/brasil-50020257]. Acesso em: 02.07. 2024.
GEIGER, Christophe. Fundamental rights, a safeguard for the coherence of intellectual property law? International Review of Intellectual Property and Competition Law, v. 35, n. 3, p. 268-280, 2004.
GIULIA, Gregory P.; HEW, Vanessa C. Trademark litigation: likelihood of confusion. Practical law intellectual property & technology. Thomson Reuters, [S.l.], mar./2023. Disponível em: [https://www.reuters.com/practical-law-the-journal/about-us/]. Acesso em: 21.07. 2024.
HEMPHILL, C. Scott; GERSEN, Jeannie Suk. The law, culture, and economics of fashion. Stanford Law Review, v. 61, n. 5, p. 1147-1199, mar./2009.
JIMENEZ, Guilermo. Fashion law: overview of a new legal discipline. In: JIMENEZ, Guilermo; KOLSUN, Barbara (Eds.). Fashion law: a guide for designers, fashion executives, and attorneys. New York: Fairchild Books, 2009. p. 3-26.
KOLIRIN, Lianne; MEZZOFIORE, Gianluca. Kim Kardashian Kimono lingerie line sparks Japanese anger. CNN, [S.l.], 29.06. 2019. Style. Disponível em: [https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/kim-kardashian-kimono-intl-scli/ index.html]. Acesso em: 13.06. 2024.
LAI, Jessica Christine. Indigenous cultural heritage and intellectual property rights: learning from the New Zealand experience? Cham: Springer, 2014.
LENJO, Elizabeth M. Inspiration versus exploitation: traditional cultural expressions at the hem of the fashion industry. Marquette Intellectual Property Law Review, v. 21, n. 2, p. 139-158, Summer 2017.
LIXINSKI, Lucas. A third way of thinking about cultural property. Brooklyn Journal of International Law, v. 44, n. 2, p. 563-612, 2019.
LIXINSKI, Lucas. Commercializing traditional culture: promises and pitfalls in the convergence of intellectual property law and cultural heritage law. In: UBER-TAZZI, Luigi Carlo (Ed.). Annali italiani del diritto d’autore, della cultura e dello spettacolo (AIDA). Milano: Giuffrè Francis Lefebvre, 2021. p. 298-314. v. 29.
LIXINSKI, Lucas. Intangible cultural heritage in international law. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2013.
MASCARO, Alyson Leandro. Sobre direito e arte. In: MAMEDE, Gladston; FRANCA FILHO, Marcílio Toscano; RODRIGUES JR, Otavio Luiz (Orgs.). Direito da arte. São Paulo: Atlas, 2014. p. 17-26.
NGANDO, Elizabeth Oyange. Fashion as property in traditional culture: a Maasai case study. Journal of Intellectual Property Law & Practice, v.13, n. 11, p. 878-883, nov./2018.
NOVAES, Marina. As sandálias da polêmica. El País, São Paulo, 14.02. 2015. Disponível em: [https://brasil.elpais.com/brasil/2015/02/13/politica/14238-39248_331372.html]. Acesso em: 02.07.2024.
ODY, Lisiane Feiten Wingert. Direito e arte: o direito da arte brasileiro sistematizado a partir do paradigma alemão. São Paulo: Marcial Pons, 2018.
ODY, Lisiane Feiten Wingert. Dos direitos sobre a marca (arts. 130 a 133): reflexões sobre a proteção conferida pelo registro de marca e sua vigência e o decurso do tempo. In: CESÁRIO, Kone et al. (Orgs.). Comentários à Lei de Propriedade Industrial: uma análise exclusiva feita por mulheres. São Paulo: Ed. RT, 2023. p. 266-278.
ODY, Lisiane Feiten Wingert. Relações entre fashion law e o direito da arte, do autor e da proteção de patrimônio cultural. Direito Hoje – Emagis, Porto Alegre, 2022. Disponível em: [http://hdl.handle.net/10183/255055]. Acesso em: 10.06. 2024.
POZZO, Barbara. Fashion between Inspiration and Appropriation. Laws, v. 9, n. 1, p. 1-27, mar./2020.
RITSCHEL, Chelsea. Louis Vuitton faces accusations of cultural appropriation over $705 scarf inspired by Palestinian keffiyeh. The Independent, Nova Iorque, 02.06. 2021. Lifestyle. Disponível em: [https://www.independent.co.uk/ life-style/louis-vuitton-keffiyeh-scarf-cultural-appropriation-b1858596.ht-ml]. Acesso em: 17.07. 2024.
SANTOS, Alana. Chilli Beans lança coleção Yawanawa com DJ Alok. Publicitários Criativos, [S.l.], 05.10. 2023. Disponível em: [https://www.publicitarios-criativos.com/chilli-beans-lanca-colecao-yawanawa-com-dj-alok/]. Acesso em: 02.07. 2024.
SCAFIDI, Susan. Fiat fashion law! The launch of a label and a new branch of law. In: SCAFIDI, Susan et al. (Eds.). Navigating fashion law: leading lawyers on exploring the trends, cases and strategies of fashion law. [S.l.]: Aspatore, 2012. p. 7-18.
SCAFIDI, Susan. Intellectual property and cultural products. Boston University Law Review, v. 81, n. 4, p. 793-842, 2001.
SCAFIDI, Susan. Towards a jurisprudence of fashion. Fordham Intellectual Property, Media & Entertainment Law Journal, v. 29, n. 2, p. 429-434, Winter 2019.
SCAFIDI, Susan. Whennativeamericanappropriationisappropriate. Time, [S.l.], 06.06.2014. Opinion, Fashion. Disponível em: [https://time.com/2840461/ pharrell-native-american-headdress/]. Acesso em: 22.06.2024.
STAVENHAGEN, Rodolfo. Peasants, culture and indigenous peoples: critical issues. Heidelberg: Springer, 2013.
STOCKTON, Brantly. A note on Navajo Nation v. Urban Outfitters, inc. American Indian Law Review, v. 48, n. 1, p. 93-113, 2024.
TRONCARELLI, Maria Cristina; CASTRO, Eduardo Viveiros de. Povo Yawalapiti. Instituto Socioambiental, [S.l.], 2021, Povos Indígenas do Brasil. Disponível em: [https://pib.socioambiental.org/pt/Povo:Yawalapiti]. Acesso em: 29.06.2024.
VÉZINA, Brigitte. Curbing cultural appropriation in the fashion industry with intellectual property. WIPO Magazine, [S.l.], v. 4, 2019. Disponível em: [https://www.wipo.int/wipo_magazine/en/2019/04/article_0002.html]. Acesso em: 30.06. 2024.
WORLD INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY ORGANIZATION. Intellectual property and genetic resources, traditional knowledge and traditional cultural expressions. Geneva: WIPO, 2020. Disponível em: [https://www.wipo.int/ edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_933_2020.pdf]. Acesso em: 15.06.2024.
Referências Jurisprudenciais:
ESTADOS UNIDOS DA AMÉRICA. United States District Court for the District of New Mexico. Navajo Nation v. Urban Outfitters, 935 F. Supp. 2d 1147, 1155 (D.N.M. 2013). Recorrente: Navajo Nation. Recorrido: Urban Outfitters Inc. Relator: C. Leroy Hansen, 26 mar. 2013.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
A política de direitos autorais é informada nas Normas de Publicação para autores de colaboração autoral inédita e é aqui resumida: (a) o autor cede os direitos autorais à RDCC e seus editores; (b) a remuneração do autor consiste no recebimento de um exemplar da RDCC, no qual sua contribuição foi publicada. Os textos publicados podem ser utilizados.
